Wine area
Orvieto
The tufa-cliff town in southwestern Umbria gives one of Italy's longest-running white wine traditions, anchored by Grechetto and Procanico.
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Tenuta Vitalonga is an organic wine estate on the hills of Ficulle, north of Orvieto in south-west Umbria, close to the border with Tuscany. The Maravalle family has owned it since the early 1950s. Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Merlot and Cabernet grow on a ridge ringed by oak woods. Three reds lead the range: Phiculle, Terra di Confine and Maravalle Franciosini 1897. Visitors can tour the vineyards and Etruscan caves, eat at the estate's osteria and stay in its old farmhouse.
The Maravalle family bought Vitalonga in the early 1950s. It was a mixed farm then, and its vines grew up trees between fields of crops. In the early 1970s those vines gave way to high-yield rows. The grapes went in bulk to a co-operative winery. By the late 1970s the family was making a little wine of its own again, for relatives and friends. It came from a small vineyard at the edge of the fields. Nobody had ever sprayed it, because it was too awkward to reach. Its grapes stayed healthy, so the family began using fewer synthetic fertilisers, weedkillers and pesticides. The vineyards were replanted between 2001 and 2003. The estate has been certified organic since the 2018 harvest. The brothers Luigi and Francesco Maravalle lead the team.
The vines sit on a ridge that falls south from 450 to 350 metres. On both sides, cliffs drop 80 to 100 metres, and oak woods fill the view. The vineyards cover about 20 hectares, roughly 28 football pitches. In the plots called Elcione, Cipresso and Maria, sand outweighs clay. The soil there is rich in fossil shells, a sign that this hill was once under the sea. Summers are hot and dry. A light breeze along the rows keeps mould away, which makes organic farming easier. One small plot of Sangiovese is still trained up living trees, the old Etruscan way. In the woods, summer truffles are found from late May to late August.
Most of the range is red. Fabio Maravalle, a geologist and farmer, made a long study of the grapes in the highest vineyards. He worked with his friend, the winemaker Riccardo Cotarella. The result was Phiculle, first made in 2009 from Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese grown at 400 to 450 metres. Terra di Confine means borderland, a nod to the place of Ficulle on the border between Umbria and Tuscany. It also marks a change of ground, from the volcanic soil around Orvieto to the chalky clay of Ficulle. The name is what the family's forebears called the wine they made in an Etruscan cave that became a cellar in the 1800s. Since the 2013 vintage a small share of its grapes has been dried before winemaking, for a softer, rounder red. Maravalle Franciosini 1897 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese from the best rows. It spends a year in new French oak.
Phiculle and Terra di Confine carry the regional IGT label for Umbria, like the estate's Chardonnay and its rosé. There is also an organic Rosso Orvietano, sold as a DOC, and the 2021 vintage is 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet. Most wines ferment in steel; some selections can be made in wooden vats or terracotta jars. The estate sees the clay jars as a link between the two oldest trades of Ficulle, wine and terracotta.
Visits run all year and are booked ahead. All five tastings come with food, from a board of cured meats and cheese to truffle dishes and recipes inspired by the Etruscans. Meals are served at the estate's osteria, which cooks with vegetables and herbs from its own garden. One tasting includes a walk to the Etruscan caves beneath the winery and the vines trained up trees. The walk also takes in an orchard of rare native fruit trees, recovered by the arboreal archaeologist Isabella Dalla Ragione. Guests can stay at Casale Vigneria, the old farmhouse on the highest hill. Its pool looks across the vineyards to the rock of Orvieto.
Plate I · UMBRIA
Wine area
The tufa-cliff town in southwestern Umbria gives one of Italy's longest-running white wine traditions, anchored by Grechetto and Procanico.
Winery
Ficulle, Terni · Orvieto
2 tastings and 1 stay, checked by our editors. From €100.
Tasting
Visit the vineyard and winery, taste wine from a barrique, and end with a 5-course tasting lunch paired with 5 great wines
via Winedering
Food Pairing
Meet the king of the forest with a vineyard and cellar tour followed by a pairing of estate wines and gourmet truffle dishes.
via Winedering
Accommodation
The old farmhouse on the estate's highest hill, in a grove of oaks and holm oaks among the vines. Five bedrooms in the house and one more in a small outbuilding sleep up to 12. There is a kitchen with a fireplace, a garden with a barbecue and a pool that looks across the vineyards to the rock of Orvieto.
on tenuta-vitalonga.amenitiz.io
Tasting & Tour
A guided walk through the old vineyard where vines climb living trees. It goes on to the Etruscan caves, the vegetable garden and an orchard of rare native fruit trees. Afterwards four estate wines are served with four dishes inspired by Etruscan cooking: Vitalonga Chardonnay, the organic Rosso Orvietano DOC, Terra di Confine and Phiculle.
Not bookable online yet
Tasting
The estate's shortest tasting. Three of its wines, Vitalonga Chardonnay, Terra di Confine and Phiculle, are poured with a selection of local cured meats and cheeses.
Not bookable online yet
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