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Lunae
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Liguria · Wine route · 2 days
Why this drive: Vermentino is Liguria's white grape, and this coast holds both of its poles. At the Tigullio end, Bisson sinks its sparkling wine 60 metres to the seabed to age. At the Tuscan border, the Colli di Luni DOC grows the Vermentino that growers like Lunae and Ottaviano Lambruschi have made a national benchmark. Lunae's Ca' Lunae complex is the grand finale: cellar, wine museum and gardens in one 18th century manor. Every estate stop on this drive publishes bookable visits in our data, which makes it the rare Ligurian wine trip you can plan entirely in advance.
The route, drawn
Tap a day in the legend to bring its legs forward. The map follows as you scroll the stops, and a press on any marker jumps to it.
Stop 1 · The underwater cellar
Chiavari wine merchant turned winery, famous for Abissi, the sparkling wine matured 60 metres down on the seabed off Sestri Levante.
What to taste here
Bisson grew out of Pierluigi Lugano's wine shop and still bottles the gulf's own grapes. The bookable cellar visits run at its Sestri Levante cantina up the coast, where the underwater racks hold each Abissi batch at least 18 months.
Where to taste
Wines to Try
A few wines from the estates above.
Where to eat
Antica Osteria Luchin. Via Bighetti 53, under Chiavari's arcades; the Bonino family has baked chickpea farinata here since May 1907.
Stop 2 · The smallest DOC on the coast
Seaside town at the Cinque Terre's shoulder with its own tiny DOC, Colline di Levanto, on the terraces behind.
What to taste here
Taste the local Vermentino and Albarola with lunch in the old town, then take the A12 over the cliffs to the Luni cluster: there is no coastal road through.
Where to eat
Osteria Tumelin. Via D. Grillo 32, in the 13th-14th century Casa del Capitanato; open since 1970, closed 12 January to 12 February and winter Thursdays.
Stop 3 · First of the Luni cellars
Sarzana estate whose Vermentino grows on the stony plain of the lower Magra, first cellar door of the Luni cluster.
What to taste here
Two bookable visits are published in our data; the estate's own website is currently offline, so book through the listings rather than direct.
Where to taste
Booking required
Stop 4 · The DOC's hilltop capital
Hilltop capital of the Colli di Luni DOC and seat of one of the Enoteca Regionale della Liguria's four branches.
What to taste here
The regional enoteca at Via Vittorio Veneto 2 pours the DOC side by side; Ottaviano Lambruschi's cellar made this village the Vermentino benchmark.
Stop 5 · The Ca' Lunae finale
The Bosoni family's Ca' Lunae complex at Luni: cellar, wine museum in an 18th century manor, gardens and tasting rooms.
What to taste here
Book at Ca' Lunae, Via Bozzi 63: three guided tasting routes run year round, and the museum grew from Paolo Bosoni's own collection. Etichetta Nera is the bottle to carry home.
Where to taste
Booking required
Wines to Try
A few wines from the estates above.
Before you go
Visit prices are set by the winery and availability should be checked before travelling. Bookings open on the estate page or the provider's site.
When to go
Easter to October is the window. July and August load the coast roads with beach traffic and fill Levanto, so spring and September are the comfortable months, and September adds harvest in both clusters. Winter thins the coast out: Tumelin at Levanto, for one, closes from 12 January to 12 February, and estate visits drop to appointment only.
Booking reality
All three estate stops publish bookable visits in our data: Bisson at Chiavari, Tenuta La Ghiaia at Sarzana and Lunae at Ca' Lunae, seven bookable offers between them. Book Ca' Lunae direct at [email protected]; it runs three guided routes year round. Tenuta La Ghiaia's own website is currently offline, so its published visit listings are the reliable way in.
Driving notes
The drive is two clusters joined by one motorway jump: no road threads the Cinque Terre cliffs, so take the A12 from Carrodano above Levanto down to Sarzana, about 50 minutes. In July and August the Aurelia coast road crawls with beach traffic, so do the long legs before mid morning. Fuel and services sit on the A12 and around Sarzana. The lanes up to Castelnuovo Magra are narrow but short.
Getting a car
Two rail lines bracket the drive: Chiavari sits on the Genoa to La Spezia line and Sarzana on the La Spezia to Pisa line. You can arrive by train at either end. Collect a car at Genoa airport for the full route, or hire from La Spezia and drive only the Luni cluster. That cluster packs three tasting stops into eleven kilometres of road. The A12 links the two halves.
Leave the driving out
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Tours in this wine area
Nearby, not the route itself
Escape the crowds: enjoy the Tigullio at sunset on a private inflatable boat. Explore the coves of Zoagli, dive into calm waters, and enjoy an aperitif with local wine...
Where else to taste
One more estate sits on the line without being at any of the towns above.
Where to sleep on the route
One estate on this road has rooms, so you can book the cellar and the bed together.
Reading the labels you'll pass
Before you ask
A Vermentino-led DOC that ignores the regional border: its vineyards run from eastern Liguria into the first hills of Tuscany around the old Roman city of Luni. Castelnuovo Magra is its hilltop capital, and the whites from producers like Lunae and Ottaviano Lambruschi are the benchmark most Italian Vermentino is measured against.
Abissi, made by Bisson of Chiavari: a classic-method sparkling wine from Bianchetta Genovese and Vermentino that ages on the seabed at about 60 metres. It stays down a minimum of 18 months, 30 for the Riserva. The racks first went down off Portofino's marine reserve; since 2015 they sit off Riva Trigoso at Sestri Levante.
No. No through road runs along the Cinque Terre cliffs, which is why this drive jumps from Levanto to Sarzana on the A12, about 50 minutes. If you want the villages themselves, leave the car at Levanto and ride the train: the coastal line stops at all five.
Plan on booking. All three estate stops publish bookable visits in our data: Bisson, Tenuta La Ghiaia and Lunae, with seven bookable offers between them. Ca' Lunae takes reservations directly at [email protected] and runs three guided routes. The walk-in option is the Enoteca Regionale della Liguria branch at Castelnuovo Magra.
Spring or September. Both halves are coastal, so July and August mean beach traffic on the Aurelia and full car parks at Levanto. September adds harvest in the vineyards. In deep winter part of the coast shuts: Tumelin at Levanto closes from 12 January to 12 February, and cellar visits go appointment only.
At Ca' Lunae, Via Bozzi 63 at Luni, the comune that took back the name of the Roman port city in 2017. The Bosoni family's complex holds the cellar, a wine museum built from Paolo Bosoni's own collection in an 18th century manor, a liqueur laboratory and gardens. Give it a full afternoon.
No. Eastern Liguria has no signed strada del vino, so this drive strings the region's two Vermentino poles into one itinerary. The institutional stop is the Enoteca Regionale della Liguria, whose Castelnuovo Magra branch at Via Vittorio Veneto 2 has poured the region's producers side by side since 2011.
2 days
Five car-free villages, one ticketed cliff path and the steepest vineyards in Italy, walked from Levanto to Riomaggiore.
Take it with you
They land in a trip named after the route, in drive order. Reorder them, drop one, add a night, before you book anything.
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