Wine area
Orvieto
The tufa-cliff town in southwestern Umbria gives one of Italy's longest-running white wine traditions, anchored by Grechetto and Procanico.
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Azienda Agricola Custodi, which trades as Cantina Custodi, farms the hills at Canale, just south of Orvieto in southern Umbria. The soil there is mostly volcanic. Laura and Chiara Custodi carry on the work their father began in 1965. Vines cover about half the farm, beside olive groves and fields of grain. Its whites stand out, from the dry Orvieto Classico Belloro to the sweet, late-picked Pertusa. Guided visits of the cellar and vineyards, with a tasting, run all year by arrangement.
Laura and Chiara Custodi now lead this family estate, building on what their father started in 1965. It sits on the hills at Canale, a district people in Orvieto know for fertile slopes that suit vines. Chiara is one of the two winemakers, working with Maurilio Chioccia.
The farm covers about 70 hectares, roughly 98 football pitches. Vines take up 37 of them, and at least half of those grow grapes for Orvieto Classico DOC. The whites are made mainly from the Orvieto grapes Procanico, Grechetto, Drupeggio and Verdello. The rest grows Sangiovese and other grapes from outside the area, among them Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Olive groves and fields of grain fill the remaining land. The soil is mostly volcanic, with tufa and clay in places, at about 300 metres above sea level.
The cellar went up in 2003 on a natural terrace that faces the cliff of Orvieto and its cathedral. Its cobbles and roof trusses borrow from the old town, a way of tying the building to the city opposite. You enter through the shop, where an old piece of furniture frames the estate's products. Upstairs, a large tasting room opens onto two terraces. One is outdoors, with a wide view. The other looks over the working cellar, where computers watch over modern equipment beside wooden casks for ageing the wine.
Belloro was the first Orvieto Classico the estate made, a dry white with fruit and flowers on the nose. The Orvieto Classico Superiore blends Grechetto, Procanico and Viognier, and a small part of it ferments in wood. Only a few thousand bottles of it are made each year. Pertusa, sold as Orvieto Classico Superiore Vendemmia Tardiva, is the sweet one. Its grapes are picked after 25 October, sometimes into November, from vines where noble rot takes hold easily. Cold stops the fermentation while sugar remains, which leaves the wine soft, with ripe fruit and sweet spice.
The reds are sold as Umbria IGT. Austero is a full-bodied Merlot that rests in barrels before bottling. Piancoleto and the Rosso are made from red grapes off the estate's own vines. A pink spumante, the Brut Rosé, was first made in 2011. Olives from the farm go into the estate's own extra virgin oil. Custodi belongs to the Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana, the local wine road, and to the Movimento Turismo del Vino, an Italian wine tourism network.
Plate I · UMBRIA
Wine area
The tufa-cliff town in southwestern Umbria gives one of Italy's longest-running white wine traditions, anchored by Grechetto and Procanico.
Winery
Orvieto, Terni · Orvieto
Nothing here can be booked online yet. The experiences below are documented by our editors. The estate's contact details are in Practical info.
Tasting & Tour
A guided walk through the vineyards and the cellar, followed by a tasting of the estate's wines. Visits run all year at a time agreed in advance by phone or email.
Not bookable online yet
Tasting
Groups are welcome all year for a tasting of the estate's wines, at a time agreed in advance. There is parking for coaches and campers, and a meeting room that holds up to 60 or 70 people.
Not bookable online yet
Not seeing the estate you want? Estates without an online listing are reachable directly, and their phone and email are in Plan your visit.
Wines for this winery are still being curated. Check back as the UK retailer selection expands.
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